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Good Starter Watch - High End
Swaye
Moderator, Swaye's Wigwam Posts: 41,511 
So, though the watch thread isn't generating much interest, figured there might be some people hiding in the weeds who want their first nice watch, but don't want to look dumb or something stupid like that. I'm here to help!
If you are thinking you want to take that first jump into an "exclusive" high end watch - above typical mall brands like Movado, Rado, Tag (yes I realize they have a couple in house chronographs and make some nice watches, but they are still primarily a mall watch) and others, I'd like to tell you about Tudor watches. They have really come on like gangbusters the last several years with true watch fans, and they are making some fantastic pieces at relatively (for this hobby) affordable prices.
So, Tudor has been around for ages (1946), and were started by the same guy who started Rolex. In fact, they have been THE baby brother arm of Rolex since 1946. If you walk into a Rolex AD, you will find two watches for sale, Rolex, and Tudor. The DNA across both brands is similar, but Tudor were always an "entry" level watch, for people who couldn't afford Rolex but were in the store and loved them.
Anyway, up until the last 10-15 years they were just always viewed as the ETA low range of Rolex. ETA means the watch movement is mass produced by someone else and supplied to the maker to put in a watch case/bezel that they designed. It is quite common, even with many high end makers. Many people would be surprised to know that their 6K Omega has a movement that Omega didn't make, but bought from some supplier. Many Omegas of course have in house movements, but not nearly all...if you are looking at a 4K Omega, most likely the guts aren't actually made by Omega, hence an ETA watch. Still plenty of nice pieces out there with ETA movements, but watch snobs always look down on them.
So, to those who are really into watches having an "in house," or Manufacture Calibre (the movement inside the watch) is a big deal. It signifies being a true watch maker, not a watch packager. Fast forward to about 7-8 years ago, and Tudor "broke away" from Rolex (not literally but figuratively) and began developing their own in house movements. Now, most of their line are still ETA based (Breitling is the same way - over half their watches are ETA, but they have some higher end stuff built on their new but already famous B01 movement that was made in house), but a select few pieces are now made in house, and they are fantastic value for the money. They recently released their first true chronograph, in partnership with Breitlign and their robust B01 movement, which Tudor tweaked. Excellent piece that runs about 5K. But, an even better value, and three watches made truly in house are the Black Bay, Pelagos and North Flag. If I wanted my first nice high end watch, with an in house movement, and a good name behind them, and I wasn't looking to unload 5-20K on it, I'd start with Tudor.
This assumes you like tool or dive watches of course. Tudor does not really offer a dressy watch yet in an in house arrangement, and may never, as Rolex doesn't offer many dress watches either. They are the "tool watch" maker others aspire to be. In fact, you can see a lot of Rolex in the Black Bay, and the Pelagos to be honest. I prefer the North Flag, but it is an acquired taste, and it is on my short list of watches to acquire - I love the Power Reserve complication. Anyway, grey market (Jomashop, Authentic Watches, etc) these things probably fetch between high 2's-4K. If you have any questions ask. I only know about 5 things in this world and beside immoral women, off roading, hunting and inebriation, this is the only other thing I know anything about.
Tudor Black Bay GMT (GMT function at this price is killer):
Tudor Black Bay Dark:
Tudor Pelagos:
Tudor North Flag:
That's it for in house. Enjoy, or don't. Fuck off either way.
If you are thinking you want to take that first jump into an "exclusive" high end watch - above typical mall brands like Movado, Rado, Tag (yes I realize they have a couple in house chronographs and make some nice watches, but they are still primarily a mall watch) and others, I'd like to tell you about Tudor watches. They have really come on like gangbusters the last several years with true watch fans, and they are making some fantastic pieces at relatively (for this hobby) affordable prices.
So, Tudor has been around for ages (1946), and were started by the same guy who started Rolex. In fact, they have been THE baby brother arm of Rolex since 1946. If you walk into a Rolex AD, you will find two watches for sale, Rolex, and Tudor. The DNA across both brands is similar, but Tudor were always an "entry" level watch, for people who couldn't afford Rolex but were in the store and loved them.
Anyway, up until the last 10-15 years they were just always viewed as the ETA low range of Rolex. ETA means the watch movement is mass produced by someone else and supplied to the maker to put in a watch case/bezel that they designed. It is quite common, even with many high end makers. Many people would be surprised to know that their 6K Omega has a movement that Omega didn't make, but bought from some supplier. Many Omegas of course have in house movements, but not nearly all...if you are looking at a 4K Omega, most likely the guts aren't actually made by Omega, hence an ETA watch. Still plenty of nice pieces out there with ETA movements, but watch snobs always look down on them.
So, to those who are really into watches having an "in house," or Manufacture Calibre (the movement inside the watch) is a big deal. It signifies being a true watch maker, not a watch packager. Fast forward to about 7-8 years ago, and Tudor "broke away" from Rolex (not literally but figuratively) and began developing their own in house movements. Now, most of their line are still ETA based (Breitling is the same way - over half their watches are ETA, but they have some higher end stuff built on their new but already famous B01 movement that was made in house), but a select few pieces are now made in house, and they are fantastic value for the money. They recently released their first true chronograph, in partnership with Breitlign and their robust B01 movement, which Tudor tweaked. Excellent piece that runs about 5K. But, an even better value, and three watches made truly in house are the Black Bay, Pelagos and North Flag. If I wanted my first nice high end watch, with an in house movement, and a good name behind them, and I wasn't looking to unload 5-20K on it, I'd start with Tudor.
This assumes you like tool or dive watches of course. Tudor does not really offer a dressy watch yet in an in house arrangement, and may never, as Rolex doesn't offer many dress watches either. They are the "tool watch" maker others aspire to be. In fact, you can see a lot of Rolex in the Black Bay, and the Pelagos to be honest. I prefer the North Flag, but it is an acquired taste, and it is on my short list of watches to acquire - I love the Power Reserve complication. Anyway, grey market (Jomashop, Authentic Watches, etc) these things probably fetch between high 2's-4K. If you have any questions ask. I only know about 5 things in this world and beside immoral women, off roading, hunting and inebriation, this is the only other thing I know anything about.
Tudor Black Bay GMT (GMT function at this price is killer):
Tudor Black Bay Dark:
Tudor Pelagos:
Tudor North Flag:
That's it for in house. Enjoy, or don't. Fuck off either way.
Comments
The Tudor Black Bay is still $3875 retail which ain’t no Swatch.
Here's another pro tip: Buy used. I buy used watches, and trade watches for other used watches, all the time. Great deals to be had on the secondary market.
In fact, to my above point about trading and buying used watches, Govberg has become my go to source for watch swapping. If you need an intro to a good cat there who will take care of you and usually take money off the advertised price, PM me.
@RaceBannon's options for his starter watch.
I'm thinking it's their movement when I read the description:
Either way, I drunkenly adjusted the date when I wasn't supposed to and that function hasn't worked since.
GMT
ETA
and any other acronyms
Selling watches.
And fuck you for disparaging Tag. I bought this years ago and still wear it.
https://www.bloomberg.com/news/articles/2019-01-21/patek-philippe-may-come-up-for-sale-berenberg-analysts-say
Cool Kirium btw.